圖書標籤:
发表于2024-11-26
Lost Coast, The pdf epub mobi txt 電子書 下載 2024
Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them, the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language, as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school.
Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold, stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years, the stories in this collection capture the movement, mythology, fantasy, and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
評分
評分
評分
評分
Lost Coast, The pdf epub mobi txt 電子書 下載 2024