Preparation<br >Many of the projects in this book call for special<br >techniques which are explained in this Preparation<br >section. Referring to these general instructions will enable<br >you to complete the projects more easily, efficiently, and<br >produce pieces that will last through the years.<br >Tracing patterns onto Wood, Cement,<br >or Ceramic<br >Materials and tools you will need include tracing paper,<br >transfer paper, pencil, photocopy machine and large -sized<br >paper if necessary, and drafting tape.<br >Lay a sheet of tracing paper on top of pattern and trace<br >If directions indicate enlarging a pattern, place pattern<br >directly in a photocopy machine. Set the machine to<br >percentage required and enlarge. If the enlarged pattern is<br >on a grid, mark l" grid lines on paper large enough to<br >accommodate actual size pattern. Begin marking dots on<br >1" grid lines where the reduced pattern intersects the<br >corresponding grid line. Connect the dots to finish pattern<br >Tape traced or photocopied pattern in place on the<br >surface of the object to be cut or painted.<br >Insert a piece of transfer paper between pattern and the<br >object. Trace over pattern, transferring marks to object<br >Because tracing paper is thin enough to see through, it allows<br >the original pattern lines to be retraced easily. Transfer paper is<br >coated on one side with graphite or chalk. When it is pressed<br >by a pencil, it transfers the graphite or chalk to the surf:ace<br >under it. Since transfer paper is coated on only one side, make<br >a small mark and determine if the correct side is down.<br >Transfer paper comes in a variety of colors, which is hclpfnl<br >when working on different colored backgrounds. For instancc,<br >black graphite works well on unfinished pine, but white or<br >yellow would be easier to see on dark green surfaces. To<br >reduce thc amount of marks on the project, trace partial, or<br >dashed, lines instead of the solid line.<br >Tracing patterns onlo Metal<br >Materials nccdcd include tracing paper, tape, and a ballpoint<br >pen or pencil<br >~ Trace patterns onto tracing paper.<br >Tape pattern over meta<br >Using a ballpoint pen or pencil, retrace the pattern onto<br >the metal. For a deeper indentation, retrace several times<br >painting<br >Materials needed include acrylic paints, I/4" and 1" flat<br >artist s brushes, a #2 round liner brush, a 2" utility<br >paintbrush, and a sponge brush.<br >Artist s brushes are called fiat or round; this refers to the shape<br >of the metal part of the brush that holds the bristles onto the<br >shaft. Brushes are numbered as well; the higher the number,<br >the larger the brush. A size 10 flat, for instance, will be about<br >an inch across; a size 5 is more like half an inch. A size 3 or<br >#2 round is very small and is used for fine line work and<br >details. Always use good-quality brushes and keep them clean.<br >Most of the painting on projects in this book are done in a<br >simple style. After patterns have been traced and transferred,<br >fill in with the background color first, then go back and paint<br >fine detail lines, retracing them if necessary. It should be like<br >coloring in a coloring book~ust stay within the lines.<br >Most projects require primer or a base coat. This is usually a<br >fairly good-sized area, so a larger brush makes for a faster job<br >Acrylic paint cleans up with soap and water when wet. Be<br >sure to clean brushes thoroughly with soap and water until the<br >water runs clear. Never leave brushes standing in water<br >overnight. It will soften the glue that holds the bristles and<br >bend them out of shape.<br >It is always a good idea to use a drop cloth, old newspapers,<br >or something to protect work areas. Acrylic paint will wipe<br >right up offa nonporous surface, like tile or linoleum, or it<br >will even peel off when dry. But acrylic paint on carpet will<br >soak in immediately and probably not come completely clean<br >It is best in this case, if it is a small amount, to let the paint<br >dry and cut it from the top of the carpet. Clothing too will be<br >ruined by acrylic paint. It is recommended when working<br >with acrylic paint to use a drop cloth and wear old clothes.<br >Painting on Ceramic Pots<br >In addition to materials and tools fi om Tracing Patterns and<br >general Painting instructions, you will need elastic and<br >reflective roof coating, acrylic primer/sealer, wood deck sealer<br >
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我花了好几天时间才把这本书从头到尾读完,坦白说,我对它在“实用性”上的缺失感到一丝困惑,但也因此感到了一种意想不到的惊喜。我本以为会看到详细的土壤改良配方、不同气候带的植物推荐列表,甚至是一些DIY花园小物件的图纸,但这本书里关于这些技术细节的篇幅少得可怜,几乎可以忽略不计。相反,它花了大量笔墨去探讨“季节性叙事”——如何通过植物的更替,让你的花园讲述一个完整的故事。比如,它详细描述了如何在早春用雪滴花和番红花铺设一个“苏醒的序曲”,然后在仲夏达到高潮,再到秋日用那些带有铁锈色调的叶片和枯草来构建一个“静谧的尾声”。这种文学化的表达方式,对我这个习惯于直截了当获取信息的读者来说,起初有些不适应。我甚至一度怀疑,这本书的作者是不是一位诗人而不是园艺师?但当我合上书本,再次审视我那略显杂乱的后院时,我开始尝试用“叙事”的眼光去看待我的玫瑰和铁线莲,思考它们之间的“对话”是否足够流畅。这本书的价值,在于它拓宽了“园艺”这个词的定义,让它不再仅仅是种植和维护,而是一种生活态度的体现。
评分阅读这本书的过程,与其说是学习,不如说是一次对“完美主义”的深度审视。它无疑是一部制作精良的著作,图片质量高到令人发指,每一个细节,无论是花盆边缘的光泽度,还是洒水壶的把手弧度,都被完美地捕捉下来。然而,这种近乎苛刻的完美主义在实际应用中却显得有些令人焦虑。书中反复强调的观点是,任何园艺元素,无论多么微小,都必须服务于一个统一的、宏大的“主题构思”。例如,如果你选择了“地中海风格”,那么你所使用的任何陶土容器的颜色、纹理,甚至你用来覆盖土壤的鹅卵石的白皙程度,都必须严格遵循这个主题。这种对“整体性”的极端要求,让我这个习惯于随性添加新植物和更换装饰品的人感到压力山大。我需要的,是一个能够容忍我偶尔“心血来潮”地买一盆新奇多肉而不会破坏整体和谐的指南,但我得到的却是一本教人如何像建筑师一样规划每一个像素点的书籍。它教会了我如何“看”花园,但却让我更害怕“做”花园,生怕自己的每一个小改动都会打破那精心构建的脆弱平衡。
评分这本书的装帧设计简直是一场视觉盛宴,封面那种略带做旧感的布面材质,搭配烫金的字体,拿在手里就有一种沉甸甸的、对园艺美学充满敬意的感觉。我原本是冲着那些传闻中非常实用的园艺技巧去的,结果发现它更像是一本艺术画册。内页的纸张质量无可挑剔,那种微哑光的质感让即便是简单的植物照片也显得油润而有层次。尤其让我印象深刻的是其中关于“光影游戏”的那一章——它没有直接教你怎么修剪灌木,而是深入探讨了不同时间段、不同天气条件下,光线如何与户外雕塑、水景以及特定颜色的花卉发生作用。书中用了大量篇幅去分析欧洲古典园林中那种微妙的、几乎察觉不到的线条引导,比如用几块不起眼的卵石自然地将视线引向远处的拱门,这种对“不着痕迹的美”的推崇,实在是太高雅了。我期待它能告诉我一些快速提升花园“颜值”的窍门,但这本书提供的却是需要时间沉淀和细致观察才能领悟的哲学,读完后感觉我的品味被提升了一个台阶,尽管我的动手能力可能并没有因此提高多少。它更像是一本适合在壁炉旁,配着一杯红茶,慢慢翻阅,用眼睛去享受的读物,而不是一本沾满泥土的工作手册。
评分我最近迷上了阅读关于“材料学与植物的对话”这一主题的非虚构作品,因此对《Decorative Accents for the Garden》抱有极高的期待,期望它能提供一些关于如何将金属、石材、木材与活体植物融合的创新思路。这本书确实涉及了材料,但它关注的重点似乎完全跑偏了。它更侧重于讨论“锈蚀”本身的美学价值,以及如何通过特定的化学处理来“加速”铜器或铁艺制品产生理想的铜绿或铁锈色,以期达到一种“时间沉淀”的视觉效果。我本来想知道如何用耐候钢板来制作现代感的挡土墙,但书中提供的更像是如何用醋和盐水溶液去“养护”一件装饰性的铸铁花架,让它的锈迹显得更具历史感。此外,书中对天然石材的讨论,也更多地集中在其纹理、历史渊源以及如何“摆放”它们以引导风水,而不是如何进行切割、打磨或固定以实现结构稳定。总而言之,这本书把“装饰”的定义拔高到了“历史痕迹的重塑”层面,对现代、简约、低维护的材料应用则着墨甚少,这让我这个偏爱简洁线条的现代主义者感到有些意难平。
评分这本书的装帧和内容结构都透露着一种浓厚的“老钱风”审美,但对我这个居住在城市公寓里,只有小小的阳台空间的人来说,很多建议显得有些遥不可及。书中反复出现的关于“大面积铺装”、“三层垂直种植结构”以及“私人喷泉的声学设计”的讨论,让我感觉自己像个局外人。例如,书中花了足足两个章节来讲解如何选择合适的砾石来搭配特定种类的苔藓,才能在雨后产生最佳的“湿润反光”效果。我承认,那种画面感是极其美好的,想象着清晨雾气缭绕中的花园露台,但现实是,我需要的是一个能让我的几盆香草能活得久一点的策略。我本想从中学习一些小窍门来优化我狭窄的种植箱,比如如何用悬挂植物最大限度地利用垂直空间,但这本书似乎只关心那些拥有广袤土地和充足预算的人。它更像是一本为那些已经拥有完美花园的人提供的“精修指南”,而不是一本给新手提供基础指导的“入门宝典”。虽然信息量很大,但适用性在我这里基本为零,更像是一本“梦想照进现实”的反面教材。
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