In a groundbreaking new anthology, celebrated food writer Molly O'Neill gathers the very best from over 250 years of American culinary history. This literary feast includes classic accounts of iconic American foods: Henry David Thoreau on the delights of watermelon; Herman Melville, with a mouth-watering chapter on clam chowder; H. L. Mencken on the hot dog; M.F.K. Fisher in praise of the oyster; Ralph Ellison on the irresistible appeal of baked yam; William Styron on Southern fried chicken. American writers abroad, like A. J. Liebling, Waverly Root, and Craig Claiborne, describe the revelations they found in foreign restaurants; travellers to America, including the legendary French gourmet J. A. Brillat-Savarin, discover such native delicacies as turkey, Virginia barbecue, and pumpkin pie. Great chefs and noted critics discuss their culinary philosophies and offer advice on the finer points of technique; home cooks recount disasters and triumphs. A host of eminent American writers, from Nathaniel Hawthorne, Harriet Beecher Stowe, and Walt Whitman to Thomas Wolfe, Willa Cather, and Langston Hughes, add their distinctive viewpoints to the mix. American Food Writing celebrates the astonishing variety of American foodways, with accounts from almost every corner of the country and a host of ethnic traditions: Dutch, Cuban, French, Italian, Jewish, Chinese, Irish, Indian, Scandinavian, Native American, African, English, Japanese, and Mexican. A surprising range of subjects and perspectives emerge, as writers address such topics as fast food, hunger, dieting, and the relationship between food and sex. James Villas offers a behind-the-scenes look at gourmet dining through a waiter's eyes; Anthony Bourdain recalls his days at the Culinary Institute of America; Julia Child remembers the humble beginnings of her much-loved television series; Nora Ephron chronicles internecine warfare among members of the "food establishment;" Michael Pollan explores what the label "organic" really means. Throughout the anthology are more than 50 classic recipes, selected after extensive research from cookbooks both vintage and modern, and certain to instruct, delight, and inspire home chefs.
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让我印象最深的是作者那种近乎偏执的真诚。他毫不避讳地讨论了食物在社会阶层划分中的作用,以及那些被主流叙事所遗忘的、边缘群体的饮食记忆。这不是那种浮光掠影的“文化旅游”,而是带着批判性视角对饮食现象的解剖。比如,他对某一特定地域的节庆食物的描述,不仅仅停留在描述味道的甜咸,更深入挖掘了这种食物在集体记忆中扮演的稳定剂角色,以及在现代化冲击下,这种仪式感是如何被重塑甚至异化的。这种深度和洞察力,让这本书的价值远远超越了普通的美食随笔。
评分这本书的装帧设计简直是艺术品,拿到手的时候就被那种温润的触感迷住了。封面色彩的运用非常大胆却又不失和谐,那种略带做旧感的质地,让人感觉像是在翻阅一本跨越了时代的烹饪手稿。内页的排版更是考究,字体的选择既有古典的韵味,又不失现代阅读的舒适度,大片的留白处理得恰到好处,使得每一篇文章都有足够的呼吸空间。我尤其欣赏作者在配图上的用心,那些老照片的颗粒感和光影效果,仿佛能将你瞬间拉回到那个特定的历史场景中。
评分这本书的叙事节奏把握得相当高明。它不是那种一气呵成的线性叙事,而是像一个经验丰富的老饕,带着你穿梭于不同的餐桌之间。有的篇章如同快速剪辑的蒙太奇,节奏明快,充满了都市生活的喧嚣和即时满足的快感;而另一些篇章则慢得像老电影里的长镜头,缓慢地展示着乡村的四季更迭和传统技艺的传承。这种交错感带来了一种独特的阅读体验,让你时而紧张,时而放松,仿佛自己真的参与了一场跨越地域和时间的味觉之旅,那种对细节的捕捉能力,简直令人咋舌。
评分这本书的语言风格像极了一位技艺高超的调酒师,懂得如何将看似不相干的元素精准地混合在一起,创造出一种令人回味无穷的复杂口感。时而幽默诙谐,像咬了一口酥脆的焦糖外壳;时而又变得异常感性,笔触如丝绸般柔滑地滑过那些关于童年和失落的篇章。最难得的是,作者在保持其学术严谨性的同时,从未让文字显得枯燥。他成功地搭建了一座桥梁,连接了学院派的理论探讨和普通食客最朴素的感官体验,让即便是初次接触这个领域的人,也能在其中找到属于自己的那一口“味道”。
评分坦白说,我原本对“美食写作”这个主题抱持着一种较为功利的期待,以为会是某种关于食谱或食材溯源的干货集合。然而,这本书真正展现的是一种哲学层面的探讨。作者的笔触极其细腻,他并没有简单地罗列菜肴,而是深入挖掘了食物背后所承载的文化张力、移民历史和身份认同的挣扎。阅读过程中,我好几次停下来,不是因为某个观点需要深思,而是被那种诗意化的表达深深触动——那种将一碗简单的汤提升到历史叙事高度的文字功力,实在令人叹服。它更像是一系列关于“吃”这件事的沉思录,而非一本工具书。
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