Great American ThingsBY TOM WOLFEWhat a spreadl What a feast! What a weenie roast we have hereYThirty great American writers writing about great Americanthings . . . very tastyl Don't delayl Get right to itl I won't holdyou upl I'm only here to put on record the things about Americathat mean the most to American writers themselves. Not thethings that turn up in their books and artides-I mean the thingsthat writers actually care about, the things that set off thedeepest feelings they know. Don't expect them to mention suchmatters. Not for a momentl They're like everybody else in thatrespect-they'd sooner cut a main veinl The perfect example is the well-known American writerBut perhaps it's best not to say exactly which well-known AmeN-can writer-since we're about to surprise him in an intimate act.He's in his apartment, a seven-room apartment on RiversideDrive, on the West Side of Manhattan, in his study, seated at hisdesk. As we approach from th6 rear, we notice a bald spot on thecrown of his head. It's about the size of a Ritz cracker, this baldspot, freckled and toasty brown. Gloriously suntanned, in fact.Mound this bald spot swirls a corona of dark brown hair that be-comes quite thick by the time it completes its mad Byronic rushdown the baek over his turtleneck and out to the side in greatbushes over his ears. He knows the days of covered ears arenumbered, because this particular look has, become somewhatlow rent. When he was coming back from his father's funeral,