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Tokyo bristles with superlatives. It’s the most opulated, most efficient and most courteous city on earth. It has the most Michelin stars and the safest streets and has regained its title as most expensive city. It is also, in many ways, the least organised, with nothing that

resembles town planning, and none of the architectural coherence of Paris, Rome or New York. Ironically for a city so famous for conformity and social order, Tokyo’s builders seem determined to make each structure stand out. Relaxed planning laws and a raze-and-rebuild

culture help keep things visually interesting.

Socially, of course, conformity still rules, which means that the chronic congestion that can derail other cities doesn’t end in crime or violence here. You can carry all the cash you like, safe in the knowledge that not only are muggings virtually unheard of, but if you drop a purse or wallet here, someone will probably chase after you to hand it back.

The first time you set foot in the major commercial hubs of Ginza, Roppongi, Shibuya or Shinjuku, you’ll be wide-eyed and overwhelmed. Bright signs and advertisements fill your vision; huge LCD screens blast a cacophony in your ears. But there are also oases of high culture and Zen-like calm, often just a few steps from the chaos. In Shinjuku, you’ll find temples, department stores and brothels as neighbours. In Roppongi, luxury hotels,

strip joints and art museums are packed together. In Harajuku, the city’s largest Shinto shrine is just a couple of blocks from the trendiest boutiques.

Tokyo excels in unlikely juxtapositions, and that’s just part of the fun. You’d need decades

to understand this city, but you’ll enjoy it the minute you arrive.

Founded in 1968, Time Out has grown

from humble beginnings into the leading

resource for anyone wanting to know

what’s happening in the world’s greatest

cities. Alongside our influential weeklies

in London, New York and Chicago, we

publish more than 30 magazines in cities

as varied as Beijing and Beirut; a range

of travel books, with the City Guides

now joined by the newer Shortlist series;

and an information-packed website. The

company remains proudly independent,

still owned by Tony Elliott four decades

after he launched Time Out London.

Founded in 1968, Time Out has grown

from humble beginnings into the leading

resource for anyone wanting to know

what’s happening in the world’s greatest

cities. Alongside our influential weeklies

in London, New York and Chicago, we

publish more than 30 magazines in cities

as varied as Beijing and Beirut; a range

of travel books, with the City Guides

now joined by the newer Shortlist series;

and an information-packed website. The

company remains proudly independent,

still owned by Tony Elliott four decades

after he launched Time Out London.

Introduction 4
Map: Central Tokyo 12
In Context 17
History 18
Tokyo Today 30
Architecture 34
Otaku 39
Sights 43
Asakusa 44
Map: Asakusa 45
Ebisu & Daikanyama 52
Map: Meguro 53
Ginza 56
Map: Ginza 59
Harajuku & Aoyama 62
Map: Harajuku & Aoyama 65
Ikebukuro 68
Map: Ikebukuro 69
Marunouchi 74
Map: Marunouchi 77
Odaiba 81
Map: Odaiba 83
Roppongi 85
Map: Roppongi 87
Shibuya 91
Map: Shibuya 93
Shinjuku 98
Map: Shinjuku 101
Ueno 105
Map: Ueno & Yanaka 107
Yanaka 111
Further Afield 114
Consume 121
Hotels 122
Restaurants 143
Bars 176
Coffee Shops 187
Shops & Services 192
Arts & Entertainment 219
Calendar 220
Children 227
Film 232
Galleries 237
Gay & Lesbian 243
Music 250
Nightlife 262
Performing Arts 269
Sport & Fitness 276
Escapes & Excursions 285
Yokohama 286
Hakone 292
Map: Hakone 293
Kamakura 295
Nikko 300
Easy Day Trips 303
Directory 307
Getting Around 308
Resources A-Z 311
Further Reference 319
Vocabulary 321
Index 324
Maps 331
Japan 332
Trips Out of Town 333
Tokyo Subway 334
Yamanote Line Connections 336
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