The Men's Fashion Reader

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出版者:Bloomsbury Academic
作者:Peter McNeil and Vicki Karaminas
出品人:
页数:448
译者:
出版时间:2009-2-15
价格:USD 130.00
装帧:Hardcover
isbn号码:9781845207861
丛书系列:
图书标签:
  • 时尚
  • 男装
  • 文化
  • 历史
  • 社会
  • 风格
  • 流行文化
  • 性别研究
  • 服装
  • 设计
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具体描述

This book brings together key writings in the history, culture and identity of men's fashion. The readings provide a balanced range of important methodological approaches, primary research and significant case studies. The book is organized into thematic sections covering topics such as history, theory, subculture, iconic items of clothing, consumption and the media. Each section is introduced and concludes with an annotated guide to further reading. With exciting illustrations of men's dress from a range of historical periods, and including readings from key scholars and new writers across a wide range of fields, The Men's Fashion Reader is the essential introduction to the field of men's fashion.

《男士时尚读本》 品味、风格与身份:深入探索男士时尚的多元世界 《男士时尚读本》并非一本简单的着装指南,而是一次深度探索男士时尚内在逻辑、文化语境和社会意义的智识之旅。本书汇集了来自不同领域、不同视角的精选文章,以批判性的眼光审视了男士时尚是如何被建构、被理解、被穿着,以及它如何反映、塑造并重塑着个体与群体的身份认同。 本书的内容并非局限于眼前流行的服饰款式或品牌推广,而是致力于发掘隐藏在华丽表象之下的深层文化、历史和心理动力。我们将一同审视那些塑造了男士时尚演进的时代浪潮,从工业革命的兴起到青年亚文化的崛起,再到全球化语境下的多元融合。每一件服装,每一个搭配,都可能承载着超越其物质本身的文化密码。 本书的核心议题包括但不限于: 时尚的社会构建与身份表征: 本书深入剖析了时尚如何成为一种社会语言,用以沟通、区分和定位。无论是西装的规整与权威,牛仔裤的自由与叛逆,还是运动服的活力与休闲,它们在不同的时代和文化背景下,都被赋予了复杂的社会意义。我们将探讨男士时尚如何在社会阶层、职业身份、年龄段乃至于性别认知中扮演着关键角色,以及个体如何通过对时尚的选择来表达、协商甚至挑战这些社会标签。 历史维度下的男装演变: 从中世纪的华服到维多利亚时代的严谨,从20世纪初的自由主义解放到战后大众消费文化的形成,男士时尚的历史是一部不断变化、充满张力的叙事。本书精选的文章将带领读者穿越时空,理解不同历史时期社会变迁、技术进步和文化思潮如何深刻地影响了男装的廓形、面料、色彩以及穿着的规则。我们将探究那些标志性的单品和风格是如何在历史的长河中诞生的,又为何能在特定时刻赢得或失去时尚的主导权。 时尚作为一种文化现象: 男士时尚不仅仅是衣物,它更是文化生产和消费的一部分。本书探讨了媒体、广告、电影、音乐以及新兴的社交平台是如何共同塑造和传播男士时尚的潮流。我们将审视时尚行业内部的运作机制,从设计师的创作理念到时尚评论的引导作用,再到消费者群体如何解读和采纳这些信息。同时,本书也关注时尚在不同地域和文化中的独特性,以及跨文化交流对男士时尚带来的影响。 个体体验与时尚的个人化: 在宏大的社会和文化框架之外,本书同样关注时尚与个体经验的交汇。我们探讨了个人情感、心理状态、审美偏好以及生活方式如何促使个体在服装选择上做出独特表达。无论是出于对舒适度的追求,对个性的张扬,还是对某种理想自我的模仿,时尚都成为了个体表达内心世界的媒介。本书鼓励读者思考,在看似被动的潮流之下,个体如何保有能动性,塑造属于自己的独特风格。 对时尚理论与批判的梳理: 本书也包含了一些对时尚理论的梳理与讨论,引导读者从更具学术性的角度理解时尚的本质。我们将接触到诸如“模仿理论”、“炫耀性消费理论”等经典概念,并思考它们在当今男士时尚语境下的适用性。通过引入批判性的视角,本书旨在培养读者独立思考、辨别信息的能力,从而更深刻地理解时尚背后的逻辑与运作。 《男士时尚读本》适合所有对男士时尚怀有好奇心、渴望超越表面理解的读者。无论您是时尚爱好者、设计师、营销从业者,还是仅仅希望更深入地理解男性着装文化背后的故事,本书都将为您提供一个丰富、多元且引人深思的阅读体验。它将帮助您认识到,男士时尚远比我们想象的要复杂、要深刻,它是文化、历史、社会和个体共同编织的一幅迷人画卷。

作者简介

Peter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia, and Professor of Fashion Studies at the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University, Sweden.

Vicki Karaminas is Associate Professor in Fashion Theory and Design Studies at the University of Technology, Sydney. She holds the Area Chair for 'Subcultural Style and Identity' for the Popular Culture Association of America.

目录信息

Introduction: The Field of Men's Fashion
Part 1: A History of Men's Fashion
Section Introduction
1. From Black in Spain to Black in Shakespeare, John Harvey
2. The Three Piece Suit, David Kuchta
3. Macaroni Masculinities, Peter McNeil
4. Thomas Carlyle and 'Sartor Restartus', Michael Carter
5. Dandyism, Visual Games and the Strategies of Representation, Olga Vainshtein
6. A Tale of Three Louis: Ambiguity, Masculinity and the Bowtie, Rob Shields
7. Uniforms and the Creation of Ideal Masculinity, Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch
8. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men's Dress Reform Party, Barbara Burman
Annotated Guide to Further Reading
Part 2: Masculinity and Sexuality
Section Introduction
9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisure Wear, 1930-1960, William R. Scott
10. 'His Clothes': Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience, London, 1950s-1970s, Clare Lomas
11. Uber Men: Fashionable Heroics and Masculine Style, Vicki Karaminas
12. The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and That Sarong, Stella Bruzzi
13. From Catwalk to Catalogue: Male Models, Masculinity and Identity, Joanne Entwistle
14. The Transvestite Continuum: Liberace-Valentino-Elvis, Marjorie Garber
15. Dragging It Up and Down: The Glamorised Male Body, Mark Simpson
16. Class, Race and Masculinity: The Superfly, The McDaddy and The Rapper, Del LaGrace Volcano and Judith Halberstam Annotated Guide to Further Reading
Part 3: Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear
Section Introduction
17. The Genesis of the Suit, Anne Hollander
18. The Reinvention of Tailoring, Michael Zakim
19. The Japanese Suit and Modernity, Toby Slade
20. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford, Laura Ugolini
21. A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion, Richard Martin
22. Modern Masculinity and the Rise of School Uniforms, Jennifer Craik
23. Texas Livestock Auctions: A Folklife Ethnography, George A. Boeck, Jr
24. American Denim: Blue Jeans and Their Multiple Layers of Meaning, Beverley Gordon
Annotated Guide to Further Reading
Part 4: Subculture
Section Introduction
25. The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence, Holly Alford
26. Back to Africa: Reggae and Rastafarianism, Dick Hebdige
27. Cultural Responses to the Teds, Tony Jefferson
28. Rock, Fashion and Performativity, Noel McLaughlin
29. The Warhol Look, Mark Francis and Margery King
30. 'Macho Man': Clones and the Development of the Masculine Stereotype, Shaun Cole Annotated Guide to Further Reading
Part 5: Consuming and Creating Style
Section Introduction
31. Fashion and the Man: From Suburb to City Street. The Spaces of Masculine Consumption 1870-1914, Christopher Breward
32. Fashioning the Playboy: Messages of Style and Masculinity in the Pages of Playboy Magazine, 1953-1963, Becky Conekin
33. 'It was Style with a Capital 'S": Versions of Being Male Presented at the Beautillion Ball, Annette Lynch
34. New Men and New Markets, Frank Mort
35. Consuming Masculinities: Style, Content and Men's Magazines, Tim Edwards
Annotated Guide to Further Reading
Conclusion
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