具体描述
The long-awaited paperback edition of the highly acclaimed book on the foods of New England, published in 1987 by legendary cookbook editor, Judith Jones, and her late husband, Evan Jones, is finally here. The Book of New New England Cookery is not only the most complete book written about the food and recipes of these six northeastern states--with three times the recipes of its leading competitors--but is also the first to include recipes of the many non-Yankee cuisines that have so enlivened and expanded the traditional repertoire. Not merely a great regional cookbook, it is also one of the best general volumes any cook can possess.
A Culinary Journey Through the American Heartland: Flavors of the Midwest A Comprehensive Exploration of Regional Cooking Traditions, Ingredients, and the People Who Define Them This volume, Flavors of the American Heartland: A Culinary Journey Through the Midwest, is an exhaustive and deeply researched guide to the diverse, hearty, and often surprising foodways that characterize the region spanning from the Great Lakes to the Great Plains. It offers a robust counterpoint to the coastal culinary narratives, instead charting a course through the agricultural abundance, immigrant legacies, and sheer ingenuity that have forged a unique and compelling American gastronomic identity. This book is not merely a collection of recipes; it is a cultural history told through the medium of sustenance. We delve into the bedrock of Midwestern cuisine, examining how geography dictates diet, how climate shapes preservation techniques, and how waves of immigration—German, Scandinavian, Polish, Irish, and more—have interwoven their traditional flavors into the very fabric of local eating habits. Part I: The Soil and the Season – The Agricultural Engine The Midwest, often called the nation’s breadbasket, provides the fundamental ingredients for much of America’s diet. This section meticulously details the critical relationship between the land and the plate. The Corn Belt Chronicle: We dedicate significant space to corn, exploring its omnipresence beyond simple sweet corn. From the nuances of field corn used in hominy and grits (a tradition heavily influenced by Southern neighbors but deeply rooted in local production) to the subtle differences in starch derived from various hybrid strains, the versatility of this staple is fully mapped. We investigate heirloom varieties of dent and flint corn, detailing traditional preparations like spoon bread, corn puddings that predate colonial arrival, and the industrial impact of high-fructose corn syrup on both rural economies and everyday baking. Dairy Dynamics: From Wisconsin to Iowa: The book provides an in-depth examination of the dairy industry, focusing particularly on artisanal cheesemaking revival. We feature interviews with third and fourth-generation cheesemakers in Wisconsin who are reviving traditional washed-rind and natural-rind techniques, moving beyond commodity cheddar. This includes detailed segments on the complex microbiology of Limburger, the precise aging requirements for high-quality Gruyère-style cheeses produced locally, and the surprising history of butter carving contests as a form of competitive culinary art. The Swine and Cattle Heartland: Beyond industrialized meatpacking, this section explores the resurgence of heritage hog breeds—such as the Mangalitsa and the Mulefoot—and their specific suitability for regional curing and smoking processes. For beef, we compare grass-fed practices prevalent in the Dakotas against the feedlot finished methods common in Nebraska, analyzing how these feed systems impact flavor profiles in iconic dishes like the regional "hot beef" sandwich. We explore traditional methods of rendering lard and making cracklings, vital techniques in historical Midwestern kitchens. The Fruit of the North: The temperate zones bordering the Great Lakes yield specific, celebrated harvests. We thoroughly cover the cultivation and utilization of Michigan Montmorency cherries (both tart and sweet) in pies, preserves, and even savory glazes for duck. Furthermore, the cultivation of hardy grapes, particularly the University of Minnesota developed hybrids, and the resulting local wine industry—a surprising area of modern growth—is documented with tasting notes and vineyard profiles. Part II: Immigrant Legacies and Adaptation Midwestern food culture is a patchwork quilt woven from the traditions of those who sought farmland and opportunity across the 19th and early 20th centuries. This section isolates specific cultural contributions that have become thoroughly Americanized staples. The German Foundation: The influence of German settlers remains perhaps the most dominant structural element. This goes far beyond the common Bratwurst. We meticulously detail regional variations of cured sausages (liverwurst, ring bologna) specific to German enclaves in Ohio and Missouri. Significant attention is paid to the world of baked goods: the difference between Hefezopf and standard braided sweet breads, the precise fermentation required for authentic sourdough rye loaves (often using rye starters maintained for generations), and the various forms of pickled cabbage beyond simple sauerkraut, including Sauerkrautssuppe and pickled celery. Scandinavian Simplicity: In Minnesota and the Dakotas, Scandinavian influence is paramount. We move beyond the familiar lefse to explore the intricacies of lutefisk preparation, not as a novelty, but as a serious holiday centerpiece, complete with traditional lye preparation methods. We analyze the deep, complex flavor achieved in slow-cooked, slightly sour Fårikål (mutton stew) and the techniques required for successful cloudberry preserves imported or cultivated locally where possible. The unique, often savory pastries involving almond paste and cardamom are given detailed attention. Polish and Slavic Contributions: Centered around Chicago and Milwaukee, Polish culinary traditions have deeply permeated the local palate. This chapter focuses on the demanding art of pierogi making—the correct folding techniques for potato-and-cheese versus meat fillings—and the crucial role of kielbasa preparation, emphasizing the use of local smoke woods like apple or hickory, distinct from Eastern European traditions. We also look at savory filled pastries like Pączki and regional rye breads. Part III: The Modern Midwestern Table – Regional Icons and Innovations This final section dissects the dishes that define the modern, often unpretentious, Midwestern dining experience, revealing the history behind these familiar favorites. The Culture of Casserole: We tackle the Midwest’s profound, almost philosophical attachment to the casserole. This is not framed as a failure of imagination, but as a perfect expression of wartime frugality, communal sharing, and resourcefulness. We trace the origins of the ubiquitous tuna noodle casserole, the use of cream-of-mushroom soup as a binding agent, and its evolution into contemporary gourmet forms utilizing slow-braised short ribs or wild mushrooms bound in Béchamel. Sandwiches of Substance: Beyond the famous Reuben (which claims strong Midwestern heritage), we document regional sandwich phenomena. The distinct, thin-sliced Italian beef sandwich of Chicago, emphasizing the exact process of “dipping” (dunking the entire sandwich in its cooking au jus) and the application of giardiniera. We also cover the legendary tenderloin sandwich—a piece of pounded, breaded pork loin that must physically exceed the bun—and its specific cultural significance in Iowa and Indiana. The Sweet Endings: Beyond Apple Pie: While the fruit pie tradition is strong, Midwestern sweets possess unique regional signatures. We explore the dense, slightly spiced pumpkin rolls common in autumnal gatherings, the distinctive crackle of Hungarian-style nut rolls (beigli), and the surprising popularity of frozen custard stands, tracing the specific aeration and temperature controls that distinguish superior frozen custard from standard ice cream. Flavors of the American Heartland is an essential reference for understanding how agriculture, immigration, and a commitment to satisfying, substantial food have shaped the culinary landscape of the central United States. It is a tribute to the hardworking hands that plant the seeds and the cooks who transform simple harvests into enduring traditions.
