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Athens is still fresh and invigorated after its Olympic face-lift: amble between crumbling temples, enjoy a frappe in a characterful Monastiraki cafe, then trawl the shops for traditional sandals and Byzantine rings. Dine at Piraeus for waterfront views or at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the luminous Acropolis. Raise a toast to Dionysus in a friendly barakia or dance until dawn. Your odyssey begins here.
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